Ingredient in the spotlight: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Human skin serves as the body’s first line of defence against ultraviolet (UV) radiation, but this is not always sufficient to prevent sunburn, premature aging, or more serious conditions like skin cancer. To enhance the skin’s protection, the cosmetic industry has significantly increased the use of UV filters as part of modern photoprotection strategies. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (EHMC), also known as octinoxate, is one of the most common UV filters used in cosmetic products.
What is Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate?
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is the ester of 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and methoxycinnamic acid.
This ingredient is reported to function in cosmetics as a UV filter, UV absorber and light stabiliser agent and is currently authorised for use in cosmetics as a UV filter under Annex VI to Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 at a maximum concentration in ready for use preparation of 10%.
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate absorbs only UVB radiation and, therefore, protects the skin only from damage caused by UVB light. It may also be incorporated in cosmetic products for formula protection purposes and therefore it is used in several kinds of product types, such as creams, sprays, and lip products.
Safety concerns
One of the most discussed concerns regarding Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is its potential as an endocrine disruptor. Endocrine disruptors are substances that alter one or more functions of the endocrine system and consequently cause adverse effects in an intact organism, its progeny, populations or subpopulations.
In addition to potential human health concerns, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate has also been linked to environmental issues due to its "persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic" (PBT) characteristics.
Scientific Opinions
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate has been subject to safety evaluations by the Scientific Committee on Cosmetology (SCC) in 1991 and 1993 and by the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-food products intended for Consumers (SCCNFP) in 2001.
Recently, the European Commission requested the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) to carry out a new safety assessment on this ingredient.
In its preliminary opinion, having considered the data provided, and the concerns relating to potential endocrine disrupting properties of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, the SCCS cannot conclude on the safety of this ingredient, because the information provided is insufficient to exclude genotoxicity. In addition, the available evidence also shows that this ingredient is an endocrine-active substance due to clear demonstration of estrogenic activity and weak anti-androgenic activity both in vitro and in vivo.
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